Cheese of the Month: Old Man Highlander

story by Tenaya DarlingtonCalkins creamery in honesdale makes a brie-style cheese called Noble Road that has garnered a cult following. But the creamery also produces a Gouda-style heartthrob with a nutty swagger, which is just as fabulous. If Robert Redford were a cheese, he’d be this one. Old Man Highlander even has a leathery exterior. Inside though, it’s all walnuts and sweet cream, thanks to the unpasteurized milk of Delaware River Valley Holsteins.

Husband and wife Jay Montgomery and Emily Bryant make Old Man Highlander on their family farm, which has sustained five generations. This summer, they’re offering half-day farm tours that include lunch and a visit to the underground cave where Old Man Highlander ages for nine months. You can also see some of the creamery’s other styles, like Cowtipper (a Gouda washed in Yuengling Porter) and Misty Morning (a Welsh cheddar).

For summer, Old Man Highlander works a picnic like no other wedge. It loves the heat and grows melty, sensuous. Pack a loaf of rustic bread and some cold nut brown ales. Then hit the beach or the Mann Center. If you want a preview nibble, order the cheese plate at Supper, 926 South St. —Tenaya Darlington, aka Madame Fromage, madamefromage.blogspot.com

Old Man Highlander is available from the online store at Calkins Creamery or at Di Bruno Bros. (930 S. Ninth St.) Calkins Creamery, 288 Calkins Rd., Honesdale, 570-729-8103; calkinscreamery.com