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Cold Costs: The High Price of Artisan Ice Cream

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Ryan Collerd for The New York TimesA few weeks ago, I had a little dish of heaven from Capogiro—goats’ milk gelato with rosemary and local honey. It was funky and creamy, a true conundrum on the tongue. I paid handsomely for it. Artisan ice cream is no cheap treat.

Today, the New York Times tackles that very issue, and Philadelphia’s own Capogiro gets prominent placement:

The owners of high-end scoop shops say that most customers don’t blink. “It’s still an affordable luxury,” said Sarah Bonkowski, a manager for Capogiro, a chain of gelato shops in Philadelphia. “People understand that things done by hand cost more.”

But if I thought $4 for a small was bad, how about this:

Those who think that the pint of Jeni’s Splendid Ice Cream, an excellent line made in Columbus, Ohio, is a little too pricey at Dean & DeLuca in SoHo, for $11 a pint, probably would hyperventilate at the thought of paying $50 for three pints of MilkMade, which may be the country’s most expensive pint of ice cream. It is available only in Manhattan, via a new home delivery service that has about 150 subscribers, according to Diana Hardeman, one of the company’s owners. For $50, subscribers receive three pints of ice cream over three months, made from fruit and milk with impeccable agricultural credentials, in flavors like Coffee + Donuts (made from fair trade coffee and local doughnuts) and Blackcurrant With Gingersnaps.

Love the idea of an ice cream CSA—the price, not so much.

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