Yesterday's Inquirer featured a Craig LaBan penned piece on recent changes at the beloved Talula's Table in Kennett Square. Word broke a few months ago that the couple behind the venture—as well as the defunct Django in the city—were headed for divorce. In this feature, Aimee Olexy and Chef Bryan Sikora are surprisingly open about the pressures and interpersonal conflicts that led to the dissolution of such a fruitful pairing.
Beyond the gossipy appeal of the story, its LaBan's descriptions of a recent dinner at Talula's that really soar:
In the kitchen, longtime cooks whose services reach back to the Django days - chef Matthew Moon and his sous-chefs Joshua Behm and John Patterson - have stepped out from Bryan's shadow to embrace the spring tasting menu as their own. Seared Barnegat scallops pair with honeyed citrus and the unexpected richness of foie gras mousse topped with smoked salmon caviar. A hot croquette, cracked open, gushes a creamy marrow béchamel with spring ramps into a bowl of morel mushroom soup. Tiny cannelloni filled with silky sweet potatoes riff Southern over house-smoked bacon and spicy mustard greens ringed by a root beer liquor glaze. The tuna melt gets deconstructed and redefined - mustard-crusted, oil-poached, gratineed beneath Amish Swiss, whipped into tonnato dressing - with a modern elegance that has long defined the Talula's aesthetic.
Grid wrote about Talula's in May 2009.